The temperate climate of the Willamette River Valley between the Oregon Coast Range and Cascade Mountains favors settlement. The broad low valley’s camas fields sustained the Kalapuya people. And Oregon Trail and Applegate Trail pioneers were lured to the lush Willamette River Valley for its agricultural promises. Many of these newer arrivals from back East and Europe drained many of the valley’s wetlands for their crops. Today only 1 percent of the valley’s wet prairies—a unique environment providing habitat for a myriad of species—remains. And within this wildlife refuge’s more than 5,000 acres, you’ll find the Willamette Valley’s largest remaining intact wet prairie.
The William Finley L. Finley National Wildlife Refuge was established in 1964 mainly to provide wintering habitat for the dusky Canada goose. But its prairies, meadows, and oak forests provide habitat for more than 300 species. There are more than 12 miles of trails and service roads in the refuge open to hiking. About half of them—mainly the wetland trails are closed from Nov. 1 to Mar. 31 for wildlife management. But the refuge’s forested trails are open year-round, and fall is a wonderful time to take to them.
A wonderful 4.5 mile (7.2 km) dumbbell loop (I named it thus because its configuration is shaped like a dumbbell) can be made by following the Mill Hill Loop, Intertie Trail, and Woodpecker Loop. From the large parking area, set out on the Mill Hill Loop Trail. A spur leads to the park’s visitor center (worth a visit) along with a viewing area of nearby wetlands and Pigeon Butte. If you forgot your binoculars, there are fixed scopes in an observation shelter.
The Mill Hill Loop next comes to a junction with the Intertie Trail which heads north to cross the park’s main road and connect with the Woodpecker Loop Trail. It matters not which loop you want to hike first. If you head for Mill Hill you can expect a quiet, mostly forested hike around a small hill. The forest here consists primarily of Oregon ashes, Bigleaf maples, and Gary Oaks. These trees provide food and shelter for scores of critters. By mid-November most of these deciduous tree will have shed their leaves for the winter—so enjoy the crunching sound of dry leaves beneath your feet as you make your way along the trail.
The Woodpecker Loop Trail is named for the five species of woodpeckers that live in the refuge—pileated, hairy, downy, Lewis’s and my favorite, acorn—as well as the northern flicker and red-breasted sapsucker, which are also members of the woodpecker family. This trail traverses attractive oak savannah and along the edges of meadows and restored prairie. There are some good viewpoints along the way that on a clear day include the snowy summits of the Three Sisters and Oregon’s second highest summit, Mount Jefferson. There’s a spur that leads to another trailhead and parking area if you want to hike the Woodpecker Loop Trail as a standalone.
If by hike’s end you still have daylight and energy leftover, head to the Fiechter House (you passed it on the way to the trailhead). This restored home was built in 1855 by John Fiechter, an immigrant from Germany who came to Oregon after having some success in the California Gold Rush. The home is listed on the national historic register and is the oldest home in Linn County.
Near this historic site is the Homer Campbell Boardwalk Trail. This 0.4 mile (0.6 km) accessible trail is open year-round and traverses a lush bottomland to an observation deck at a large wetland pool. It’s a great spot for observing birdlife. At this point, you’re probably wondering who William L. Finley was.. Well, Finley was an Oregon conservationist who persuaded President Theodore Roosevelt to protect land in the Klamath Basin, establishing the first national wildlife refuge west of the Mississippi River. Finley was also a renowned wildlife photographer, and president of the Oregon Audubon Society (which later became the Audubon Society of Portland).
Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks. For details on great bird watching spots along the Columbia River including a few national wildlife refuges, pick up a copy of his Day Hiking Columbia River Gorge (Mountaineers Books).
Location: Willamette Valley, Linn County, Oregon
Distance: 4.5 miles (7.2 kilometers) roundtrip
Elevation gain: 250 feet (76 meters)
Difficulty: easy
Trail notes: Dogs prohibited, running prohibited; refuge open to hunting—check website for details and wear orange in season; practice Leave No Trace Principles
Trail highlights: Exceptional wildlife habitat, rare Willamette valley wet prairies, oak and ash forest, valley and volcano views, Snow-free throughout most of the winter
Contact: William L. Finley National Wildlife Refuge
Getting to the trail from Corvallis: Drive OR 99W south for 9.5 miles (15.3 km) and turn right onto graveled Finley Road. Continue for 1.3 miles (2.1 km) and turn left onto graveled Finley Refuge Road. Then proceed 2.6 miles (4.2 km) through refuge to large trailhead parking area near the refuge visitor’s center.
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