An unassuming mountain near sparkling Lake Valhalla, Mount McCausland grants commanding views. Stand atop this 5,747 foot (1,752 m) peak and look north to Washington’s forgotten volcano, Glacier Peak. Stare west to jagged spires in the Wild Sky Wilderness and east across lofty crags that catch white puffy clouds. But the view south will command most of your attention. Gaze directly below you to gleaming Lake Valhalla framed by Lichtenberg Mountain with its famed horn-like spire. The view is a beloved one among many a Washington hiker—and well worth the grunt required to attain it.
Start by hiking the busy Smith Brook Trail. Once a muddy mess, the trail has been rebuilt and it can now withstand the thousands of boots that ply it each summer and fall. The trail starts by skirting a buggy flat before commencing into a series of switchbacks. Smith Brook, the trail’s namesake, softly gurgles in the background. Soon enter the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness, named for one of Washington’s longest serving and most noted US senators. A native son of Everett, Jackson was a champion of the environment.
The grade eases as the trail skirts beneath a series of ledges and big boulders. At just over one mile (1.6 km), the trail reaches the Pacific Crest Trail at Union Gap. Now head south on the long distance trail and enjoy an easy stretch through mature forest. The way passes through two openings—one granting views of Nason Ridge in the east—and the other a close-up view of Lichtenberg Mountain.
The trail eventually reaches a small gap above Lake Valhalla. Most hikers will be content continuing straight and dropping a couple of hundred feet to the beautiful lake. If you’re McCausland-bound locate an unmarked but obvious trail heading north through heather meadows. At first the trail isn’t bad—but then it soon turns downright mean. This path was never formally built, instead created by peakbaggers. It’s steep and eroded in places, and a set of trekking poles will come in handy. Don’t venture off and create new trails. The surrounding heather and berry bushes are fragile and can’t survive an onslaught of errant boot strikes. Hopefully this trail will be officially recognized and upgraded to better standards. Do your part by treating the surrounding vegetation with care.
It’s a steep grunt of about half a mile (0.8 km) and 650 feet (198 m) of elevation gain to the 5,747-foot (1,752 m) summit, named in 1989 for Norman C. McCausland, a US Forest Service employee who spent 44 years on the job. Reach the summit and savor the views. Enjoy a birds-eye views of Lake Valhalla and Stevens Pass and Lichtenberg Mountain with its precipitous horn (or thumb if you prefer) sticking out over the lake.
Wander a little farther north for more views. The trail stops right before some steep ledges. Glacier Peak can see just to the right of the ledges along with several glacier- and snow-covered peaks and ridges. Little and isolated Dow Lake can be seen directly below. And out across the western horizon locate Labyrinth Mountain and Mount Howard, Mount Mastiff and Rock Mountain along the lofty Nason Ridge.
The only thing that makes this hike better is to visit in autumn, when the carpeting berry bushes set the slopes afire in crimson. McCausland’s berry patches are legendary and you’ll want to return later in the season to graze while you gaze. In the meantime savor the sweet views.
All photos courtesy of Craig Romano.
Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks, including Day Hiking Central Cascades (Mountaineers Books) which includes detailed descriptions of this hike and many others in the Stevens Pass area.
Location: Henry M Jackson Wilderness
Distance: 6.4 miles (10.3 kilometers) roundtrip
Elevation gain: 1800 feet (533 meters)
Difficulty: moderate
Trail notes: Stay on the trail to protect fragile heather and wildflower slopes; practice Leave No Trace principles
Trail highlights: exceptional alpine views, alpine lake, old growth forest, wildflowers, exceptional huckleberries and blueberries in season; exceptional autumn colors
Contact: Wenatchee River Ranger District, Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest
Getting to the trail: From Everett head east on US 2 to Stevens Pass. Continue east for another 4.0 miles (6.4 km). Just after where the highway divides turn left onto Smith Brook Road (FR 6700). Carefully cross westbound lanes and continue for 2.8 miles (4.5 km) on good gravel road to trailhead.
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