Get Outside! Enderby Cliffs

The stark, sheer Enderby Cliffs in British Columbia’s north Okanagan country offer quite a contrasting backdrop to the lazy oxbows of the Shuswap River below. It’s an exhilarating hike to the top of the striking cliffs with dizzying views below of the river meandering through farms and forest. Savor views too of massive Okanagan Lake to the south and nearly as massive Shuswap Lake to the north. And admire the surrounding verdant hills and peaks streaked in gold thanks to birches and western larches.

A prominent landmark in the transitional zone between the North Okanagan Highlands and North Thompson Uplands, the Enderby Cliffs were formed by 50-million year old lava flows and carved by retreating glaciers. The cliffs are striking and the escarpment impressive, but the surrounding flora is also beautiful with its stands of birches, groves of old-growth Douglas-firs and western larches, and high altitude clusters of sagebrush and rabbit brush. A myriad of large mammals including grizzly bears take refuge within the cliffs’ varying ecosystems. Birdlife here is prolific with scads of raptors soaring on thermals and updrafts.

Locals have long hiked to the top of the cliffs via a rough and tumble path that defied gravity and sensibilities. In 2001, the cliffs became part of a 5,680-acre (2,299 ha) provincial park. In 2010 the Splatsin Indian Band (southern tribe of the Shuswap First Nation), BC Parks, and the Shuswap Trail Alliance reconstructed the trail. It’s now longer, but more agreeable, with gentler grades and good tread. It still heads along the escarpment teetering at the edge of the sheer cliffs. So exercise caution and stay well away from the edges where a slip can be fatal.

From the parking area cross Brash Allen Road and start up the Tplaqin Trail. Deriving its name from the Splatsin word for cliff, the trail begins on a right-of-way along a pasture. Admire the towering cliffs rising above the farmland. The trail then enters mature forest and turns north, crossing a few small creeks and reaching an old road. The way then bends south and follows an old logging road. Aside from timber, the area around the cliffs were once eyed for mineral wealth. Around 1900 a seam was discovered in the cliffs containing coal. This brought a fury of activity to the area, but the seam soon proved to contain very little coal. Within a few years all the coal was extracted and no new deposits were found.

At about 1 mile (2 km) the trail comes to a large wooded waycross that once contained a crucifix. The cross was built in the Bavarian tradition to mark a crossroad—in this case, the trail leaving the old road. The crucifix was carved by villagers of Oberammergau, Germany.  I do not know what happened to the crucifix–perhaps it is now on display in an area church or museum.

The trail now continues on a good grade, traversing steepening slopes and passing a few good viewpoints of the Shuswap River Valley. The way then switchbacks to the north again passing a wetland and mossy boulder yard. At 2 miles (3.2 km) it emerges at the Larch Hills Lookout. During September and October you should have no trouble locating the trees for which these hills are named after.

The trail then passes through a cedar grove before steadily gaining elevation via a series of tight switchbacks. At about 3.4 miles (5.5 km) crest the escarpment and get ready to reap some visual rewards. The trail now continues north, soon coming to the beginning of the cliffs and the first of many breathtaking and heart pumping viewpoints. Admire the magnitude of what lies ahead and above.

Continue climbing, passing one jaw-dropping viewpoint after another. At 4.3 miles (7.0 km) reach the end of the trail at the highest of the cliffs. Once again savor a dazzling view. Beyond the oxbowing river and the village of Enderby below, look south to city of Vernon and Okanagan Lake; and north to Salmon Arm and Shuswap Lake sparkling in the distance. After resting up, make the return, eventually giving your senses a reprieve from the overstimulation.

Photo credits: all photos by Craig Romano.

Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than twenty hiking guidebooks, including Day Hiking Eastern Washington (Mountaineers Books), which includes many scenic trails in and near the American Okanogan.

Location: North Okanagan, British Columbia

Distance: 8.6 miles (14.0 kilometers) roundtrip

Elevation gain: 2,264 feet (690 meters)

Difficulty: difficult

Trail notes: Dogs permitted on leash. Stay back from all cliff edges. Not suitable for small children. Be bear aware. Practice Leave No Trace Principles

Trail highlights: stunning cliffs more than 330 meters (1000 feet) high along an old basalt escarpment. Sweeping views of the Shuswap River and North Okanagan valleys.

Contact: British Columbia Parks

Getting to the trail From Kelowna drive BC 97 north 53 miles (86 km) north to Enderby. Then turn right onto Cliff Ave and proceed for 0.3 mile (0.5 km) coming to a junction upon crossing the Shuswap River. Turn left here and drive 1.1 miles (1.8 km) on the Enderby Grindrod Road. Then turn right onto Mowat Road and proceed .25 mile (0.4 km). Bear left onto Brash Allen Road and continue 1 mile (1.6 km) to trailhead parking lot on your left.

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