Located between the sprawling cities of Olympia and Tacoma, Washington, the 3,100-acre Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually National Wildlife Refuge (Frank Nisqually NWR) protects one of the last remaining relatively undeveloped river deltas in southern Puget Sound. An important stop for migratory birds, the refuge is home to plenty of species year round as well. More than 200 species of birds call the refuge home throughout the year. One of the best bird and wildlife viewing spots in the Puget Trough, what really makes visiting this refuge a sheer delight is its one-mile elevated boardwalk trail.

The Frank Nisqually NWR was established in 1974 at the mouth of  Nisqually River, which finds its source in the glaciers of Mount Rainier. Much of the river’s delta was part of the Brown Dairy Farm prior to the establishment of the refuge. During this period, more than five miles of dikes were built to reclaim salt flats. In 2009, refuge officials removed four miles of the dikes, restoring more than 760 acres of tidal salt flats. However, the large twin barns of the old farm still remain, and interpretive signs explain the refuge’s history and ecological importance.

In 2015 the refuge (formally known as the Nisqually NWR) became known as the Billy Frank Jr. Nisqually NWR. Frank Jr., who died in 2014, was a member of the Nisqually Tribe. Through many acts of civil disobedience, he challenged the state and federal governments to honor the Medicine Creek Treaty (particularly tribal hunting and fishing rights) which was signed in 1854 on land now within the refuge.

Frank Jr. was arrested more than 50 times during the Fish Wars of the 1960s and 1970s when members of several Native American tribes throughout the Puget Sound Basin demanded that the US Government recognize their fishing rights. Exacerbating the tensions of this time were diminishing fish stocks. Frank Jr. and others also fought for the right to manage various fisheries guaranteeing them a healthy and sustainable yield. This conflict was taken to federal court in the case  U.S. versus Washington, in which US District judge George Hugo Boldt ruled in favor of the tribes in 1974. The Boldt Decision not only affirmed the tribes’ rights to half of the harvestable salmon return, but also established the tribes and the state of Washington as co-managers of the fisheries. Frank Jr. would go on to chair the Northwest Indian Fisheries Commission for more than 30 years. In 2015 he was posthumously awarded the Presidential Medal of Freedom by President Obama. Having the refuge named after him is a fitting honor.

Before hitting the trails be sure to visit the refuge’s visitor center. Then armed with binoculars and a good bird guide, set out. There are basically two trails within the refuge, the Twin Barns Loop and the Nisqually Estuary Trail. You can opt for an easy-one mile hike on the Twin Barns Loop—or extend your outing with the 1.5-mile Nisqually Estuary Trail. Add the short overlook spurs into the mix and you’re looking at a 4.4-mile hike. The entire trail system is wheelchair accessible, but the loop in particular is specifically designed as an ADA trail.

Start your adventure from the visitor center, heading counter clockwise (you can go the opposite direction if you care) on the Twin Barns Loop. This entire trail is a wide boardwalk skirting sloughs, dikes, and wetland pools that teem with wildlife. Soon come to a junction with the Riparian Forest Overlook Spur Trail leading to a slough along the Nisqually River.

Check it out and continue on the main loop under giant cottonwoods and maples before coming to another junction. Head right first a few hundred feet for a good look at the Nisqually River. Then return to the junction and continue hiking the loop—now heading west. Soon come to the historic Twin Barns. Check out the interpretive panels and wildlife viewing areas. More than 300 species of birds, amphibians, and mammals inhabit the refuge.

Then head onto the Nisqually Estuary Trail, following a dike for the first half mile—then onto a one-mile long snaking elevated boardwalk. It’s one of the most unique and delightful trails in the state. The boardwalk takes you out into the delta, providing excellent wildlife viewing opportunities and good views of Anderson Island and the Tacoma Narrows. When the tide is out you’ll walk over glistening and gurgling mud and salt flats. This is also one of the best times for birdwatching. Depending on the season, look for eagles, dunlins, sandpipers, falcons, merlins, purple martins, and geese. Return often for sightings of different species.

Follow the boardwalk back to the Twin Barns and complete the loop by walking past more waterfowl and amphibian-rich wetland pools.



All photos courtesy of Craig Romano.

Craig Romano is an award-winning author of more than 20 books. For detailed information on hikes like this near Olympia, check out Urban Trails Olympia/Capitol State Forest (Mountaineers Books).

Distance: 3.0 miles (5 kilometers) of trails

Elevation gain: minimal

Difficulty: easy

Trail notes: Dogs prohibited; $3.00 per four adults entrance fee; or Interagency Passes accepted; Northern end of the Nisqually Estuary Trail is closed from October to late January for hunting season; trails closed at dusk; some trails ADA compliant.

Trail highlights: exceptional bird and wildlife watching, extensive boardwalks, large, fairly undeveloped southern Salish Sea estuary, kid-friendly, interpretive center and trails

Contact: Frank Jr. NWR

Getting to the trail: From Seattle or Olympia, take I-5 to Exit 114. Then turn left from Olympia or right from Seattle and follow Brown Farm Road for .7 mile (1.1 km) to parking and trailhead at the Refuge Visitor Center.